I've been trying to free up the round pots I use for sowing by transplanting the bigger seedlings into square pots I use for adult plants. It doesn't really make more room for them but the depth is changing from 5cm to 8,5cm which they like very much. And of course I can now use the free round pot to sow some more mesemb seeds. :)
I like how flat and pancake-like the seedlings are. This is my favorite lithops shape. I just hope these particular seedlings are not too flat (is it possible for a lithops to be too flat?).
Great looking seedling Lithops Rika. Are these all the same age? If yes, quite a range of sizes. I always wondered if seedling size within the first year corresponded with seed size. Larger seeds would have more stored food for the seedlings in the first few months, as roots were still getting established. Lithops with larger seeds generally are easier to grow from seed.
ReplyDeleteI know you transplant into relatively dry pumice but how do you get the root system neatly into the planting holes? It's hard to make a hole in dry pumice - it just fills back in from the sides. Do you trim off most of the roots we see in your first picture? Do you poke a hole in the pumice with some type of tool? I've used a chopstick and knitting needle. But when the media is dry, there is a tendency for the loose media to fall back into the opening as I try to get the roots into the hole. As I've mentioned to you before, I lose the most lithops during the first seedling transplanting. I'm really going to try and improve on that this year. Thanks for the great pictures, the aucampiae seedling look really good. I like the size, form (flatness) of aucampiae but it can be a little fickle when older. Have a great day!
Bob
This is much easier than you think! :D My transplanting method into dry pumice actually counts on the stones falling from the sides. I don't dig any holes AT ALL ;)
DeleteI fill the pot completely and use a stick that I place parallel to the root (even if it's long - no extensive trimming if not needed) and then wiggle it to let the pumice stones collaps and pull the plant downwards by the root by themselves. This allows me to plant many seedlings like the ones above neatly beside each other in a very small pot.
I've made a video of my transplanting method but it is not very good because it's only one adult plant with a thick root there and there is no wiggling needed. I should make a video of the transplanting of seedlings next time I do it :)
http://lithops-stories.blogspot.de/2011/08/transplanting-lithops.html
It's really easy!
To answer your other question Bob, the seedlings are all the same age, sown in October 2012. I don't know about the difference in seed size having influence on their size today. I think the smaller ones are weaker or had troubles at one point. The kid in the left bottom corner for instance regenerated this time by breaking through the old leaves somewhere near the root and cutting of the supply from those old leaves which I then completely cut off to prevent rotting. It has survived but I guess this adventure slowed it down. Normally the smaller seedlings die eventually and only the bigger ones are left... but not necessarily. On the windowsill I nourish and cherish every seedling :)
DeleteBut I noticed the same thing about larger seeds. They germinate much easier and give the seedlings a head start in their development. I've sown some mesemb seeds on the 5th of April. Mitrophyllum sp. (which was discribed by Mesa Garden as a tiny variety, otherwise I wouldn't be persuaded - those things are lovely but huge!) germinated after two days, but I'm still waiting for any action from Maughaniella (seeds like dust)...
Agree about the aucampiae. I didn't have much luck with this species. Sadly even the parents of the seedlings above have died soon after flowering. All my previous attempts held up for a couple of years and then inevitably messed up a regeneration and withered. I think it is the fact that they are big that almost always kills them during regeneration (at least under windowsill conditions). They just can not digest all the mass properly over the winter...
With these seedlings I want to try growing aucampiae that hatched here and didn't have the pain of acclimation. My guess is that they will be smaller under my conditions anyway thus will have better chances to regenerate properly year after year. So far the theory. We'll see ^^a
Have a nice day, too! :)
I have watched your transplanting video several times and the key seems to be that you press the stick onto the end of the main root and PUSH the root system down into the pumice, rather than make a hole and insert the roots. Is this correct? It sure looks quick and easy, at least in a pumice only potting medium. I've got several pots of year old lithops and I'm going to try this method. Looks promising for me. Thank you.
DeleteYes, that's why it doesn't illustrate what I was describing properly. On the video I basically push the root down with the stick which is only a good method if you're planting only one plant in one pot and if it is an adult plant with a strong main root you are sure you will not damage.
DeleteI really need to make a better video just to show how it's done with many plants in one pot and without using the stick to pull them down but rather letting the stones themselves pull them down with the help of stick-wiggling that makes the stones collapse. :)
No hole digging either way :) Glad I could clarify it a little bit..
A group aucampiae always seem to look good. I have completed my seed sowing and have started transplanting last years seedlings. As my compost is loam based I do not have a problem with the hole for the roots filling in.
ReplyDeleteHi Alain :)
DeletePlease do show your transplated seedlings in your blog! ;)
Yes I should do some. I did show some last year.
DeleteHi Alain, What the moisture content of the compost when you transplant? Rika told me she transplants into dry pumice. I've also used loam based media, but if it is very dry, it is difficult to form a hole in which to insert the plants root system. The sides of the hole just collapse. I suspect Rika trims her lithops roots back considerably prior to transplanting. This then would require a very small diameter hole for the single main tap root. (Sorry Rika to utilize your blog to discuss transplanting media with Alain) :)
ReplyDeletePlease utilize away!! :D
DeleteCollapsing stones is what pulls the roots down. It's almost like the plants plant themself, really. It can only get a little bit difficult if you are trying to fit 16 seedlings in a 5x5cm pot like I always do XD But there are tricks for that as well XD
It is a little difficult to describe but I try to use compost which is just about to dry out so that it still sticks together but will dry out quickly after potting is finished.
DeleteJust saw your little video and had to laugh - kurz und schmerzlos!
ReplyDeleteBut I think you're right, we mostly think too much - the plants do find their way, even with one or two bended roots!
Lovely aucampiae btw; all my seedlings are hatching now - aucampiae the only one besides 'peersi' that is still watching the others hatch. And there are small and quickly renewing ones and big cotyledons that still don't move, within one species. But a big cotyledon makes a bigger little plant when it finally decides to hatch.
Art
Jap, so einfach gehts :) The lithops roots grow back very quickly. And since they are being transplanted from dry to dry they are inactive anyway. No worries.
DeleteTrue. A healthy strong plant will find its way :) (I'll make a post about it soon)
Congratulations on the hatching! Newly hatched lithops/mesemb kids are so cute, enjoy! Sometime they take longer to germinate but that's okay, we're all patient. We wouldn't grow these plants otherwise :)